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An overview of Eheim Classic canister filters
Posted by Deepak on 2011/9/12 9:05:14 (6693 reads)

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Eheim classic filters are the most popular model in canister filter range. The classic filter from Eheim has been on the market for years and proven itself millions of times. This is the basic model of Eheim's external canister filters, yet still features perfect pump output, filter efficiency, maximum running smoothness, and endless continuous operation. The classic one-chamber design allows for the greatest flexibility in media set up for biological, mechanical, chemical and adsorptive filtration. Classic filters can be used for fresh and saltwater aquariums.

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From a compact external canister filter for aquarium sizes up to 250 l to a large filter for aquarium sizes up to 1500 l, the classic range features carefully tailored external canister filters, equipped with high quality components with an excellent price-performance ratio. You can't go wrong when you choose a classic model. Classic external canister filters have everything a filter needs. They feature the proverbial EHEIM running smoothness and sophisticated functionality.

The "Full Space" design of Eheim's canister allows it to large amounts of filter media while making it more versatile. The filter comes complete with a safety hose-connection system to stop separation, all the filter medias needed to set up the filter, intake and outtake tubes, and double isolating valves.

All Classic filters come with a two year manufacturer guarantee. Please check this with your retailer for the details.

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The Eheim Classic Series is available in following models:

Eheim 2211 for Aquarium size upto 150.80 Litres(39 US Gallons)
Eheim 2213 for Aquarium size upto 248.82 Litres(66 US Gallons)
Eheim 2215 for Aquarium size upto 346.84 Litres(92 US Gallons)
Eheim 2217 for Aquarium size upto 599.43 Litres(159 US Gallons)
Eheim 2250 for Aquarium size upto 995.28 Litres(264 US Gallons)
Eheim 2260 for Aquarium size upto 1492.92 Litres(396 US Gallons)

Eheim 2211 for Aquarium size 150.8 Litres (39 US Gallons): The Eheim 2211 canister filter is the smallest filter in this series and is a good choice for small to medium size aquariums. The Eheim 2211 canister filter is designed for tanks up to 39 gallons, pump output of 78 gallons per hour and filter circulation of 62 gallons per hour. The volume of the filter is 0.26 gallons and it uses 5 watts of electricity.

The Eheim 2211 canister filter is sure to give you years of dependable service. Although more expensive than other brands, Eheim canister filters last longer and suffer from few breakdowns, making them cheaper in the long run. Convenient and multifunctional Filter Media are Extending the Capabilities of the Filter

Eheim 2213 for Aquarium size 249 Litres(66 US Gallons): The Eheim 2213 Canister Filter has a compact pump coupled with a large volume canister for filter media. The filter is for aquariums up to 66 gallons with a maximum pump performance of 116 gph and delivery head of 4 foot and 11 inches. It is extremely quiet, durable and long lasting. It provides high pump output and effective use of filter media for fresh or saltwater aquariums.

Filter Size: 6" diameter x 13" high
Tubing: 494 (1/2") tubing for intake and outtake.

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Eheim 2215 for Aquarium size 347Litres (92 US Gallons): The Eheim 2215 Canister Filter has a compact pump coupled with a large volume canister for filter media. The filter is for aquariums up to 93 gallons with a maximum pump performance of 164 gph and delivery head of 5 foot and 10 inches. It is extremely quiet, durable and long lasting. It provides high pump output and effective use of filter media for fresh or saltwater aquariums.

Filter Size : 7" diameter x 14" high
Tubing: 494 (1/2") tubing for intake and outtake.

Eheim 2217 for Aquarium size 599.43 Litres(159 US Gallons): The Eheim 2217 Canister Filter has a compact pump coupled with a large volume canister for filter media. The filter is for aquariums up to 159 gallons with a maximum pump performance of 264 gph and delivery head of 7 foot and 6 inches. It is extremely quiet, durable and long lasting. It provides high pump output and effective use of filter media for fresh or saltwater aquariums.

Filter Size : 8" diameter x 16" high
Tubing: 495 (5/8") tubing for intake. 494 (1/2") tubing for outtake.

Eheim 2250 for Aquarium size 995.28 Litres(264 US Gallons): These classic external canister filters have been proven models for large aquarium sizes up to a volume of 1000 l for years. Equipped with large canister 7 l and strong pumps 1200 l/h, large aquariums are filtered efficiently. The large model 2260 is equipped with a drain cock in the bottom of the canister for easier use.

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Eheim 2260 for Aquarium size 1492.92 Litres (396 US Gallons): These classic external canister filters have been proven models for large aquarium sizes up to a volume of 1500 l for years. Equipped with large canister volumes 23 land strong pumps 2400 l/h, large aquariums are filtered efficiently. The Eheim 2260 is equipped with a drain cock in the bottom of the canister for easier use.

Maintainance of Eheim Classic filters: EHFIMECH should be used at the bottom suction area. It provides mechanical filtration. Next is a Coarse Filter Pad. The next layer of EHFISUBSTRAT will act as the main biological filter medium. The substrate's high porosity is ideal for bacteria colonization and ensures unbeatable long term decomposition of Ammonia and Nitrites. Next is a Fine Filter Pad and a carbon pad. Chemi-pure can be used as a replacement for the Carbon Pad for chemical filtration (10oz per 50 gallons) for freshwater aquariums. Depending upon the desired water quality, the layers of filter media can be increased. Specific water treatment can also be achieved with an individual filter media arrangement.

  5   Article ID : 33
An Overview of Rena XP Filstar Filters for Aquariums
Posted by Deepak on 2011/9/1 23:40:00 (3560 reads)
Aquarium Basics

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Powerful, easy to use external canister aquarium filter has an anti-airlock system for continuous, silent operation; media baskets hold mechanical, chemical and/or biological filtration; self-locking water shutoff system; self-priming easy startup.

The Rena Filstar XP Series is available in four different models:

Rena Filstar XP 1 for aquariums up to 170 liters(45 US Gallons)
Rena Filstar XP 2 for aquariums up to 280 liters(75 US Gallons)
Rena Filstar XP 3 for aquariums up to 660 liters(175 US Gallons)
Rena Filstar XP 4 for aquariums up to 980 liters(260 US Gallons)



Rena Filstar XP 1: This filter is sized for aquariums up to 45 US Gallons (170 Liters). The unit is identical to the XP2 and XP3 filters but has only 1 media basket and a lower flow rate. All other features and functions on the unit are the same as the larger XP2 and XP3.



Rena Filstar XP 2: This filter is sized for aquariums up to 75 US Gallons (280 Liters). The unit is identical to the XP1 and XP3 filters but has 2 media baskets and a higher flow rate than the XP1. All other features and functions on the unit are the same as the XP1 and XP3.



Rena Filstar XP 3:This filter is sized for aquariums up to 175 US Gallons (660 Liters). The unit is identical to the XP1 and XP2 filters but has 3 media baskets and a highest flow rate of the XP Series All other features and functions on the unit are the same as the XP1 and XP3.



Rena Filstar XP 4: The Rena XP4 continues the tradition of excellence offered by the earlier versions of theRena Filstar series but with a more powerful motor and added filtration options. With a powerful flow rate of 450gallons per hour, the Filstar XP4 is recommended for aquariums up to 260 gallons. The unit features longer lengthsof flexible tubing to accommodate the demands of larger systems, 8 separate media chambers for maximum filtrationoptions, 20 BioChem Stars for optimum biological filtration and a new progressive level microfiltration pad whichremoves the finest particles for crystal clear aquarium water.

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Rena Filters - How They Work?: Rena Filters Rena Filters are unique among all external aquarium filters on the market today. Like the smaller Rena XP1 model and Rena XP2 model the Rena XP3 zero bypass, up-flow filter system insures that all water passes through the filter media.

Freshwater aquariums, saltwater aquariums and saltwater reef aquariums all benefit by this system of filtration. Coupled with the wide variety of filter media available the Rena XP Filstar filter range can be customized to work with all aquariums.

Another unique feature of this filter is the Quick Disconnect intake/discharge system which eliminates the need to re-prime after cleaning. This is accomplished by a special valve system in the Quick Disconnect. Lifting the handle on the Quick Disconnect closes the valves and traps the water in your intake and discharge tubes leading to the Aquarium.

After cleaning, just insert the Quick Disconnect into the top of the Rena Filstar filter, push down on the handle to open the valves and the filter will fill the canister with water from the aquarium. Once the canister is filled, start the motor and your system will restart without priming. It doesn't get any easier than this!

  0   Article ID : 31
An overview of Hagen Fluval 05 series canister filters
Posted by Deepak on 2011/9/1 23:20:00 (4036 reads)
Canister Filter

Click to see original Image in a new windowFluval 05 filters represent the exciting newly refined generation of external filtration technology. Reliable workmanship combined with new innovations, the Fluval 05 Series offers easy-to-use, accurate, powerful filtration in four sizes to suit all types of aquariums, whether small, large, simple, or sophisticated. Fluval provides a Full setup & maintenance guide (included as DVD) and usually comes with a 3-year guarantee.

The Fluval 05 Series is available in four different models:

Fluval 105 for aquariums up to 100 liters (27 US Gallons)
Fluval 205 for aquariums up to 200 liters (53 US Gallons)
Fluval 305 for aquariums up to 300 liters (80 US Gallons)
Fluval 405 for aquariums up to 400 liters (106 US Gallons)


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Fluval 105: The Fluval 105 External Canister Filter provides complete, multi-stage filtration for aquariums up to 100 Litres (25 U.S. gallons). The modular design allows for quick and easy maintenance while flexible filter media chambers permit maximum versatility for basic to custom filter media configurations. Fluval 05 external canister filters offer quick, trouble-free maintenance features. These include instant priming, lift-lock clamps that provide easy access to the unit and an Aqua-Stop feature that stops the water flow without the need to disconnect hoses. Backed by a 3-year guarantee.






Click to see original Image in a new windowFluval 205:The Fluval 205 External Canister Filter provides complete, multi-stage filtration. The 205 modular design allows for quick and easy maintenance, while flexible filter media chambers permit maximum versatility for basic to custom filter media configurations. Black and Silver casing, 680 LPH suitable for aquariums up to 200 litres. Instant Prime, no need for manual siphoning. Aquastop feature eliminates leaks & mess, Updated rim connector for secure hose connection. New, clog free intake strainer.






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Fluval 305: Fluval 305 external canister filters offer quick, trouble-free maintenance features. These include instant priming, lift-lock clamps that provide easy access to the unit and an Aqua-Stop feature that stops the water flow without the need to disconnect hoses. Backed by a 3-year guarantee. Instant Prime, no need for manual siphoning. Aquastop feature eliminates leaks & mess. Updated rim connector for secure hose connection. New, clog free intake strainer. Ribbed hosing.






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Fluval 405: The Fluval 405 External Canister Filter provides complete, multi-stage filtration for aquariums up to 400 Litres. The modular design allows for quick and easy maintenance while flexible filter media chambers permit maximum versatility for basic to custom filter media configurations. Fluval 05 external canister filters offer quick, trouble-free maintenance features. These include instant priming, lift-lock clamps that provide easy access to the unit and an Aqua-Stop feature that stops the water flow without the need to disconnect hoses. Backed by a 3-year guarantee.

  0   Article ID : 32
Handbook for Discus Newbies
Posted by Deepak on 2011/4/27 1:57:37 (4804 reads)
Aquarium Pets

Common Name: Discus, Discusfish
Scientific Name: Symphysodon aequifasciatus
Category: Cichlids

Many people wonder why discus are called king of freshwater aquarium fish but only discus fanatics can vouch for suitability for the title awarded to them. I would say I would like to call discus a ‘King’ because of its smooth royal movement and the amazing colours this fish possesses. Originated from Amazon basins of Brazil and Peru, discus has become really popular among aquarium hobbyists. Discus breeders all over the world developed many strains of discus by cross-breeding various original strains.

A common newbie hobbyist is sometimes found to be bit reluctant to start with discus because of many misconceptions in his mind. Fear of losing this heavily paid-for fish, its expensive diet, water changes etc. can be some of the ‘Fear Factors’ in his mind. However this is not entirely true, discus is not that hard fish to keep as you think if you follow the basic rules of raising them.

As a startup process, read about discus as much as you can from various fishkeeping forums on the internet, books etc. If possible, meet an experienced discus breeder/hobbyist in your locality and have your doubts got cleared, no matter how stupid those doubts sound. These experienced people would be happy to help and encourage you to proceed further.

Selecting Tank: Tank-size would play an important role in healthy development of your discus. As a thumb-rule, discus demand 10 Gallons of water per fish. I would say, minimum of 36”x18”x18” or 48”x24”x24” tank-size is recommended. 24” height seems more appropriate as discus prefers to swim in upper direction more as a vertical movement and also it may contribute to the proper development of its body. Though I agree to the fact that discus look stunning in planted tanks; for beginners, I would strictly recommend bare-bottom tank for the ease of cleaning. Refrain from your any dark colour background stickers as it stresses discus. Preferably, have a light-blue colour background or if the behind wall is of faded colour, such sticker is not necessarily required. Avoid any decorative to your discus tank which provides hiding places to your fishes and they will tend to be shy swimming freely. Place your tank to avoid direct sunlight or at a place having consistent movement in front of a tank. Also avoid shadows falling on your tank.


Selecting Discus: It would be highly recommended to source your discus from breeders and not from your local fish shop as the quality of the latter can never be guaranteed. Discus is cichlid and they do better when kept in a school of minimum 6 to 7. A fish of 3-3.5” length is better to get started with for newbies as its internal system is more stabilised compared to smaller size ones. Avoid selecting discus which is triangular in shape, having bloated stomach or chipped eye. Observe the fish’s eye to body ratio, eyes should not appear bigger in proportion to fish’s body. Keep away from discus that show vibrant colours at juvenile stage, particularly red colour discus which could be hormone fed if they show flashy colour at younger age. Select discus which are most active than others from the lot. I would recommend newbies to start with hardy strains like Blue Turquoise, Blue Diamonds, and Pigeon Bloods as their tolerance level is superior compared to others. Mixing discus together from various sources is not recommended; newly brought fish should be quarantined for minimum 7-10 days in order to get adjusted to its new home. I would suggest adding Terramycin to this quarantine tank, I use 1 capsule (250mg) per 10 Gallons of water. It is recommended to have QT without any decoratives or power filter, simple air-stone or small sponge-filter would suffice.


Aeration/ Filtration: Aeration is another important factor directly influencing the health of discus. A simple sponge filter would suffice connected to an air-driven pump. It would be a good idea to have couple of such filters in a discus tank so that they can be cleaned alternatively to retain the beneficial bacteria in at least one filter. However, you can add a powerful external filter to maintain water quality to its best as much you can offer, as commonly said no filteration is adequate to aquarium fishes. Avoid using internal power filters, powerheads as their water turbulence will stress your discus.


Water: Discus can easily play around within pH variation between 6 and 8. It is always a safe deal to use water stored for about 24 hours. Chlorine is very volatile and evaporates very quickly from the stored water. However in certain areas like Mumbai, you can use direct tap water for your discus provided you de-chlorinate it by using Sodium Thyosulphate (Hypo). Dropping one hypo crystal per 10 Gallons of water should be fine, do not use excessive hypo than recommended. The more water changes to your discus tank, the more fresh oxygen supply to your fish contributing to their speedy growth. Many breeders follow the rule having at least 3-4 water changes in a day to their discus tanks. For juvenile discus, minimum of 40-50% water change is recommended on a daily basis. However, adult discus can be entertained with weekly water change.


Temperature: Discus prefers warm water conditions hence any temperature between 28-31 degrees Celsius is ideal for them. Particularly in northern India, it gets really chilly during winter; hence the use of quality heater is recommended during winter time.


Food: Live food like Tubifex and Blood Worms should be strictly avoided. Instead, protein-rich food like Beefheart serves good for the swift growth of discus. Alternatively, other animal hearts like of chicken, pig, and goat can be used. Various Beefheart mix recipes are available on the internet and you can chose own of your choice. Do not feed excessively to your discus as they prefer eat in small quantities by making little pieces of their food off the bottom. Now you will understand, why undressed base for your discus tank was recommended. Juveniles need to be fed at least 4-5 times while adults can do very well with 2-3 little feeds in a day. Dry food like good quality pellets, frozen bloodworms, artemia etc. can be added to their feed as discus would love to have variable diet just like any other fish. Make sure you are feeding your discus after water changes and not before it.


Sexing: There is no full-proof method to identify the sex of discus even at an adult stage. Male will chose his own female partner from the group and both of them are found to be getting along together.


Medication: If your discus are eating well and so long as you are not feeding any live worms to them, there is no need to medicate (de-flaggellate or de-worm) them. Refrain from exercising unnecessary medicinal experiments with your discus, unless required which should be done with proper advice from discus experts.


Tankmates: It is always better to give discus, a tank of their own. Discus is stressed by fin-nipping fishes and movement of other huge fishes roaming around them. However if you insist for its tankmates, corydoras can be accompanied with them. Some people add neon tetras as ditchers when their discus are shy of swimming freely.


Life: Average Discus can grow upto 5-6 inches can easily live for 7-8 years. Some strains like Turquoise/ Blue Knights can grow even bigger like 8-9 inches can ideally be called 'Bucket-Size'.


Hope this information will benefit discus newbies and people who plan to keep discus soon.
BEST OF LUCK AND HAPPY DISCUS KEEPING!!!

------------------------------------------
Reference:
This article is taken from IndianAquariumHobbyist(IAH) website with the permission from the author Yogesh). If you have any concern, then please inform the webmaster using "Contact Us" form.

About the Author: Yogesh is an experience hobbyist and is a moderator of IndianAquariumHobbyist(IAH) website.

  0   Article ID : 30
Pop-eye (Exophthalmia) – A common fish disease
Posted by Deepak on 2011/3/17 3:23:55 (19121 reads)
Disease and Care

Pop eye (Exophthalmia) is a condition or symptom of an underlying infection in eyes rather than a specific disease, and it can be the result of a number of different causes. The eye bulges out in this manner because of fluid build up, either behind the eye or in the eye itself. The first signs of such infection is either one or even both eyes will start to bulge. Slowly with time it can bulge to such an extent that the fish will look really shocking. The bulging eye may have a thin layer of 'skin' around it, this is a tough tissue that covers the eye keeping it in the socket and as the eye bulges it stretches the 'skin' with it. The fish may also get less active and show no interest in food. Fungus infections can show up afterwards.

If this disease is not detected soon after it is caught the fish can lose one or both of its eyes and its eye sight. You can never be 100% sure the root cause of pop eye, however the most common cause of the pop eye are:

• Internal/external injury
• Bad water parameter/ quality (High nitrates/nitrites/ammonia)
• Internal bacterial infections by Exophthalmus and Corneybacteriosis,
• Water contamination (metal or plastic poisoning)
• Unsuitable salinity

Few other less common causes are
• Vitamin A deficiency, tumors and gas embolism
• Gas Bubble Disease: which is caused by a sudden dramatic change in gas pressure in the aquarium. It's caused by excess oxygen in the water, particularly from filters that blow air directly from outside to inside the tank, and from pressurized tap water that did not get mixed. This can also happen by changing too much water at one time or by adding cold water to the fish tank. Gas bubbles form in the fins and skin of the fish. The bubbles look like blisters and are very easy to see.

Pop eye is easy to identify since it causes they eye to swell up and protrude from its eye socket. The eye will also often become clouded. It is possible to guess the cause of the pop eye based on the symptoms.

1. If only one eye is infected, it is usually caused by an injury (due to fighting with other tank mates or accidental injury during tank maintenance or transportation)

2. Pop eye caused by bacterial infection or environmental issues usually affects both eyes.

3. If pop eye on both eyes is followed by a fungal infection, it is usually bacterial pop eye. It is common for a fish suffering from bacterial pop eye to become infected by fungi due to its weakened state.

4. If pop eye on both eyes is not followed by a fungal infection, the pop eye is usually caused by environmental issues.


Treatment

It is difficult to specify a specific treatment unless the main cause is definitely known. Different types of pop eye require different treatments.

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If caused by Injury: Pop eye caused by trauma can often heal by itself if given optimal conditions. Move the fish with pop eye to a tank where it can be alone and won't get stressed by other fish.  Make sure to keep perfect water quality in the tank.  Adding a tablespoon of Epson salt for every 5 gallon of water for at least 3 days (longer if necessary) in your tank may help the recovery by drawing the fluid out. Please note, Epsom salts isn't really salt (sodium chloride) it is Magnesium Sulphate.

If caused by environmental factors: It is very important to improve water quality and other environmental issues to avoid more fish getting sick. Fish will never get well if you don't improve the environment. If water quality is the problem (high nitrates/nitrites/ammonia etc), perform a 50 percent water change as soon as possible and then 15-20 percent water changes 3-5 times per week, until the water readings are correct. Overstocking is a common problem for bad water quality. Another common reason would be decaying dead fish and fish food. The tank should be thoroughly searched for any dead fish and check if you are not over feed.

If caused by water contamination: check for any new items, which was added to the aquarium recently, it should be double checked that it is not poisoning the water or letting off chemicals. Check the quality of the water conditioner ( take good opinion by other aquarists).

If caused by Bacterial infection: Bacterial pop eye can be hard to treat as it is an internal infection and internal infections are always harder to treat than external since it is harder to get the meds to the place where they are needed. Treat bacterial pop eye with a broad spectrum antibiotic. That is usually effective if the infection hasn't progressed too far already. A fish given antibiotics can recover even from severe cases, but the more severe the case is the harder it will be to successfully treat it.

Reference: Fishlore

  3   Article ID : 27
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